The dishes are served on seconds-old tortillas and casually devoured at communal tables or bar tops. Kermit in Bangkok (frog legs in a house-made yellow curry garnished with almonds) hangs with the Degenerado (aged chorizo and carne asada topped with frijoles de olla and a quail egg). Carnitas-style octopus capped with shredded and fried leeks shares menu real estate with wagyu carne asada. WHY: This Dallas taqueria is no mere taco spot. WHAT: The taqueria with the little back room that’s a Mexican food game changer for Texas. Ask for them by the bakery’s trademarked name, klobasniki. The Village Bakery is the self-proclaimed inventor of the now-ubiquitous sausage kolaches. Instead, buttery, yeasty with authentic fillings like apricot, poppyseed, and cream cheese are displayed side by side with more obscure offerings, like sweet buchta rolls and, at Christmas, the braided bread known as vanocka. The folksy Village Bakery often gets overshadowed by shinier establishments right off Interstate 35, but drive over the tracks into downtown West for quintessential Texas Czech treats. Their culinary traditions - as well as their language and polka music - have endured and fused with local culture to yield pastries and plates that are distinctly Texas. WHY: Czechs began immigrating to Texas in the 1850s, and many settled in the fertile, blackland strip down the center of the state, including in the small town of West. WHAT: The oldest Czech bakery in Texas, opened in 1952. In an area of downtown Austin chock-o-block with dining options, Emmer & Rye easily distinguishes itself from the crowd. Ace pastry chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph brings the meal home with sweets like strawberry sorbet covered in salted cream and a caramelized apple tart with smoked juniper ice cream. Vegetable-centric dishes - ribbons of minted kohlrabi hiding blue crab meat, charred broccoli with burnt tangerine glaze and benne seed - hearken to the season and to national dining trends.
It’s a jumping-off point for the restaurant’s overall greatness: Service is amazingly engaged. WHY: Owner and executive chef Kevin Fink has made a calling card out of milling his own wheat for pastas like White Sonora agnolotti filled with smoked potato and the gratifyingly chewy Blue Beard Durum spaghetti for his signature cacio e pepe. WHAT: A light-filled, modern American bistro that builds polished menus around a zeal for heirloom grains.
Two wonderfully odd tacos on homemade flour tortillas complete my ideal Garcia’s meal: one filled with a supple slice of smoked brisket, also killer with a splotch of guac, and the other wrapped around a bone-in pork chop. But a recent re-visit to Garcia’s, run by the same family since 1962, confirmed my devotion to its Deluxe Mexican Dinner plate: The oversize platter includes two cheesy enchiladas and a pork tamale covered in chili con carne and additional cloud banks of yellow cheese (say yes to the option of chopped onions) a freshly fried crispy taco stuffed with ground beef, shredded iceberg lettuce, and diced tomato sides of rice and refried beans creamy with lard and bacon fat and, brought first as a starter, a chalupa smeared with guacamole.
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WHY: I acknowledge the lunacy of distinguishing one Tex-Mex combo plate above all others in a state full of citizens weaned on its specific delights (or at least happily sustained by them). WHAT: The apotheosis of a great Tex-Mex restaurant and its irresistible comforts.
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